Pressing using a coal iron.
From the 20th to the 24th October 2008 I trained a group of 5 tailors in the village of Koussanar to reproduce 4 bags from the YNW collection. The aim of the training session was to teach the tailors how to use paper patterns correctly in order to produce a uniform batch of bags, and to improve sewing techiques and finishings in order to obtain a quality product. We wanted to work with tailors in Koussanar since the other actors in the chain are also local - the cotton growers, the spinners, the weavers and the natural dyers. It would have been easier to work with tailors in Dakar who are more used to working on higher quality products for export, but we prefered to create opportunities for the rural tailors, who have now become members of the Yakaar Niani Wulli Federation.
On the first day I introduced the project and its objectives, and explained what 'organic' and 'fair trade' mean. We then discussed using paper patterns, and the level of quality required. Throughout the week we worked on 4 different products, and the level of understanding and quality of sewing increased each day. By the 5th day the tailors had already achieved a high or acceptable level of quality. We hope to improve the quality of finishings and the products themselves over the coming months.
Cutting cloth using paper patterns.
Overlocking to secure fabric edges.
Hand embroidery.
Koussanar boys modelling one of our bags!
We also visited the indigo dye expert in a nearby village (who is over 90 years old) to find out more about growing and picking indigo and the conditions needed to produce the deepest blue colour.
At our indigo dyer's house - the 90-something year old woman in the middle.
Talking about indigo...
The group of tailors also made a traditional outfit for me with elaborate embroidery to thank me for the training!
Outfit sewn for me by the tailors.
Evaluation of the training.
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